Château Haut-Brion, 1er Cru Classé, Pessac Léognan, 2008
Why oh why can't we sell the Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion wines. Year after year they produce exquisite wines from some of Bordeaux's most hallowed terroirs – and mature they are some of our favourite wines to drink. And yet commercially they remain the least sought after of the Firsts and pseudo-Firsts. Perhaps 2015 will be the vintage their fortunes change; they have made a spellbinding range. The 2015 Haut Brion is much more reserved than its neighbour, La Mission. Initially introverted, but with aeration notes of blackcurrant, damp earth, forest fruits and savoury notes of cooked meats and crushed stones emerge. This is a more austere and serious character here which is surprising given the higher proportion of Merlot, but this is often a feature of Haut Brion compared with the flamboyant nature of la Mission. One can tell that there is enormous potential on the palate; cool cassis and crème de mûre with an unbelievably persistent haunting air of cool aristocratic crunchy berry fruit. The tannins are sumptuous and firm, coated with cranberry and gravelly, stoney fruit. This is a very grown up, complex wine for the long term.
critic reviews
The 2008 Haut Brion has a very perfumed and floral bouquet: ebullient raspberry coulis and crushed strawberry fruit, sage and a hint of black olive. It just builds momentum in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. It feels a little grainy in texture, centered upon gravelly black fruit laced with black olive and smoke. It felt more austere than I expected, the finish reserved and somehow contained and yet the aftertaste is extraordinarily long. Avoid opening bottles for now because this was always one of the standout wines of the vintage, but at 10 years old it might be going through a dumb phase. (Tasted at BI Wine & Spirit’s annual 10-Year On tasting.)
This is profound! 2008 Haut-Brion: The extraordinary 2008 Haut-Brion is a candidate for -wine of the vintage.- Composed of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc, it reveals more evolution and complexity in its large-scaled perfume. The dense purple color is followed by a sweet nose of creosote, asphalt, blueberries, black currants and jammy raspberries, sweet tannins, a savory, fleshy mouthfeel and a stunning finish. This incredibly pure, noble wine was produced from one of the estate's smallest crops (only 7,000 cases produced versus the usual 12,000 cases). It should drink well for three decades or more.